For the last couple of years, H Moser has been stripping superfluous detail away from its dials; indices, text and even logos ditched in a policy bordering on the covert that has served to pull sharp focus on to the Schaffhausen brand’s exquisite fumé dials.
Now, in something of an about-face, the brand is adding more detail, this time in the name of instant legibility. For the first time Moser has created a perpetual calendar with month and date windows.
The Pioneer collection, Moser’s sporty steel line which is water resistant to 120m, already has an existing perpetual calendar using the brand’s ingenious system that sees the dial’s 12 hour markers double up as month indicators by way of a stubby central month pointer, which must still count as the stealthiest QP on the market.
However, the new MD (Month-Date) does away with the month pointer of HMC 800 calibre, which is seemingly replaced by a month disc on the new HMC 808 calibre. Both calibres share the same seven-day power reserve from double barrels (with indication on the dial) and leap year indicator on the reverse. The calibre also allows for the date to be adjusted at any time of day without risk of inflicting damage on it.
Oddly though, the date window is fractionally taller than the neighbouring month window, as are its numerals. The difference is so slight you may very well not notice it unless someone else points it out to you, as someone did to me. The problem then is that it’s impossible to ignore. It would almost certainly be a more harmonious design if the two windows and fonts were size-matched.
The Pioneer has never been a shrinking violet with a case measuring 42.8mm across but the addition of the month wheel has added 3.6mm to its height, making it 14.9mm tall. That said it’s perfectly comfortable on the wrist. The two fumé dial options are unlikely to go under the radar either. “Funky Blue” features all the usual applied hour markers and printed small second indices you might expect, while the striking, all-new “Burgundy” stablemate is stripped back to the bare minimum.
The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD might be a case of addition rather than subtraction, but Moser still makes some of the most minimalist QPs on the planet.
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