We recently spent time with what to us is one of the most beautiful watches we’ve seen this year. Behold, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Funky Blue” from H Moser & Cie, a super-exclusive version of Moser’s most recognised and brilliant watch, that’s currently exclusively available at Harrods. Behold, and swoon.
Moser’s perpetual calendar is a slice of pure, unfettered genius, dreamed up by the great watchmaker Andreas Strehler and in existence since 2007 (it was originally known as the Perpetual 1 – and if we’re honest that’s still what we think of it as – but was renamed by Moser’s new owners, the Meylan family, a couple of years ago).
It completely rethinks the look of a perpetual calendar, breaking down the display into a solution that is stupendously elegant and simple. Away go all the subdials that are normally required for the various calendar indications. Instead, a traditional date window combines with a tiny central hand pointing to hour markers that double as month markers. Simplicity itself.
What it loses in a day of the week indication, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar surely gains in pure ingenuity and beauty, and that’s especially the case when you turn the thing over. On the reverse is the full glory of the Moser HMC 341 movement – one of the most singular calibres in all Swiss watchmaking, and encased in a lusciously curved sapphire case-back.
This relaxed, elegant watch is an absolutely fierce piece of watchmaking. First off, the large date indication changes instantaneously on the stroke of midnight, while the whole perpetual calendar is set easily from the crown. And it can be set forwards or backwards as you please.
The movement itself includes the leap year display, normally shown dial-side – the numbered star rotates with an arm pointing out the year in the cycle, black years being leap years. It also features Moser’s notable removable escapement: the brand’s watches are designed so that when the watch is serviced the escapement can be removed in one piece, and replaced with a new one that’s pre-regulated. That’s possible because Moser’s in-house strength includes making its own hairsprings. Oh, and it packs in seven days’ worth of power reserve via two barrels, with an up/down power reserve indication on the dial.
If the perpetual calendar is H Moser’s calling card, so is the brand’s use of unusual decorative treatments to create what it calls its fumé (or “smoked”) dials, with shimmery colours that emerge from the centre and deepen into shadow at the edges. The “Funky Blue” is perhaps the most captivating we’ve encountered. It’s just gorgeous, with an almost translucent, glowing grey-blue that’s very effectively paired with a light brown, aged kudu leather strap – unexpected and terrific.
Moser makes fewer than 1,200 watches a year, so calling any of its watches limited editions is arguably tautologous. However, the Funky Blue is particularly special and particularly limited, and in the UK is currently exclusively available at Harrods Fine Watch Room. Accordingly, a special version of the kudu strap is stamped with the words “Made with love, exclusively for Harrods”.
Cased in white gold, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue is priced at £40,000.