Mujdé Metin
How has surfing changed since you started?
Nic von Rupp
I began surfing when I was 7 or 8 years old, around 1997, driven by an intense passion for the ocean. I spent all my time in the water every day, just as I do now. I was very fortunate to find my passion at that very early stage, then I was able to turn it into a profession. When I first started, the concept of being a professional surfer didn’t exist. But the sport has evolved significantly over the past few years, thanks to the rise of big wave surfing, the inclusion of surfing in the Olympics, and other developments.
When did you first come here to Nazaré?
I first visited Nazaré in 2004 – I was 14. At that time, it was a quiet fishing town, with very few people around. Even the best big wave surfers initially dismissed it jere, believing its waves were unsurfable. 2010 marked a significant turning point. It’s not every day that you get to be part of transforming the perception of a sport and witnessing its evolution firsthand. We do it for ourselves, but we also do it for those who will come after us.
How did surfing change your mindset in life?
All kinds of sports teach you discipline like nothing else. It shows you that by actually working hard, you can achieve anything you’re willing to – you witness the real progress. For me, it was surfing (that made me) a better son, a better brother, and a better version of myself. I believe surfing also teaches you to be humble and respectful, because you’re dealing with nature. There’s always someone on top of you. And it’s important to stay humble. It’s important to know that there’s a superior power and that you’re not invincible.
What made big wave surf appealing to you?
Surfing was always my primary passion and I kept pushing myself to evolve and improve, driven by a desire to explore further and progress continuously. The journey to surfing bigger and bigger waves was an integral part of that evolution. I didn’t start out with the intention of becoming a professional, or indeed a big wave surfer, but I never set strict boundaries for myself; I simply kept progressing, embracing each new challenge as it came.
“It’s not about eliminating fear but learning to manage and confront it... And I guess you get addicted to it”
Nic von Rupp
Are you always like this in your life – or is it just in surfing?
For me fear is my fuel, driving me to embrace uncomfortable situations. And I believe that constant growth comes from stepping outside of your comfort zone. Although I haven’t always been like this, I’ve found that challenging myself has always led to personal growth and happiness. When I first started surfing, I was quite afraid of the ocean and the rocks. I remember a coach teaching me how to face my fears step-by-step, a lesson that has stayed with me throughout my life. It’s not about eliminating fear but learning to manage and confront it. You’re always searching for what makes you the happiest. And I guess you get addicted to it.
Can we say, when you face the fear, that it’s not fear anymore?
But then there’s always the next fear to face. People often ask me if I’m afraid when I’m surfing big waves. The truth is, yes, I am very much afraid. It’s normal and human to feel fear. Obviously, I'm afraid of death. Who isn’t?
Extreme sports enthusiasts often seem to have a fearless attitude towards death...
They are lying! Something I’ve learned throughout my life is that even the incredible big wave surfers I admired, who seemed fearless, are just like the rest of us. I used to think these guys were crazy, but as I started becoming one of them, I realized we’re all the same. We all fear the unknown. It’s how we deal with that fear that drives us forward or holds us back. That’s the most important lesson surfing has taught me: there is always a way to step outside your comfort zone and move forward.
Based on that, I assume “Born to Dare” is your personal motto as well.
Yes, it’s quite incredible that the motto of Tudor is “Born to Dare” because it resonates so deeply with what we do every day! But I don’t believe anyone is inherently born to dare. It’s a trait that develops over time through evolution and growth. That’s the beauty of life. You constantly have to challenge yourself and dare to step further. Watchmaking, for me, is a tradition passed down through generations. It’s not just about telling time; it’s about preserving a piece of history and craftsmanship that lasts forever. For instance, my dad is turning 80 this year, and to celebrate this milestone, I’ve decided to get him a Tudor Black Bay 54. I’m part-Swiss, and it’s a great feeling to represent a brand when it connects so deeply with your cultural background
“We’re pushing the limits of what’s humanly possible”
Nic von Rupp
What’s next? Is that a question that even applies to surfing?
Yes: there’s always a next goal in big wave surfing. There’s always room for improvement: riding bigger waves, tackling them in the most extreme ways. Right now, we’re riding some of the biggest waves ever. Each year, we’re evolving, taking more risks but doing so more safely. We want to win events and keep progressing the sport. We’re pushing the limits of what’s humanly possible.
You say “we” referring to your team and other surfers – but would you say surfing is a solo sport?
Surfing is a very individual sport. It’s just you and your wave. However, when it comes to big wave surfing, it becomes a team sport. You rely on others to tow you into a wave and to save you if needed. It’s a unique structure within an individual sport. Big wave surfing is undeniably a team effort.
What’s your routine before surfing?
I really like the day of the big swells to feel like a normal day. I don’t like to put extra pressure on myself. I believe in preparation – even months before. So, I prepare hard in the off-season. When the season comes, I’m ready. I don’t need to worry because I’ve done it all. My routine is very chill: I try to have a nice breakfast and take my mind off what's going to happen. Life is quite stressful in general. Being a professional surfer involves managing a team both in and out of the water and creating content. It’s not like Formula One, where you have tens of millions of euros to manage a team; it’s more like managing a big team with limited resources. The week of the swells and the start of the season are particularly stressful. Many thoughts come to mind: will you survive another winter? Will you break the biggest wave? Sponsors put a lot of pressure on you to keep improving, and fans always want more. It is quite a stressful life, but it’s all about navigating that stress in the most peaceful, harmonious, and positive way possible.
Who’s your all-time favorite sportsman?
It would be good to have more events, but there’s a lot happening that is important as the official competitions. And media coverage plays a significant role too. 100 Foot Wave, the HBO series, is important because it highlights some of the most incredible moments in big wave surfing. Additionally, titles like “Ride of the Year,” “Surfer of the Year,” and “Biggest Wave of the Year” are as prestigious as winning an event. These aspects all contribute to the evolving nature of the sport. Honestly, every time there’s big waves anywhere in the world, and whether there’s a competition or not, it feels like a competition. You’re fighting for the biggest wave – and to surf waves that have never been surfed before.
