Things have taken a turn for the tiny at Chanel. Its iconic J12, launched in 2000 and designed by Jacques Helleu who steered the creative direction of the Maison for 40 years, was previously marketed as a unisex watch. Helleu designed it for himself and based its aesthetic codes on the sleek lines of race cars and the yachts participating in the America’s Cup. This latest 28mm version feels like a move towards the feminine. In black ceramic with diamonds, this feels like the watch Mlle would have worn while holidaying with the Duke of Westminster on his yacht, Flying Cloud.

Despite only having been launched over a quarter of a century ago, the J12 has become as much a part of the Chanel iconography as lions, pearls, the interlocking Cs and camellias. Speaking about its 20th anniversary in 2021, Arnaud Chastaingt, director of Chanel’s watchmaking creation studio, said that the J12 was a watch that, I have a very special relationship with, it has always fascinated and inspired me. It has never lost its edginess, and it has made a mark as one of Chanel’s most iconic creations. It has now become my muse.” Looks like the muse has a new small but powerful identity.